Grape, Olive, Pig

September 15, 2016
An enthusiastic journey through some of Spain's culinary hot spots, with emphasis on the work of professional chefs.Goulding (Rice, Noodle, Fish: Deep Travels Through Japan's Food Culture, 2015, etc.), chief editor of the travel web journal Roads & Kingdoms and co-author of the Eat This, Not That! series, has for six years kept a home base in Barcelona, where he lives with his Catalan wife. The city gets pride of place among the areas considered in-depth in this exuberant survey, but it's clear that the author has had some good meals and even better tapas crawls elsewhere, as well. The volume reads more like a collection of disparate essays than a unified study of the regional cuisines of Spain. In the mountains above Salamanca, Goulding watches as workers slaughter the 140 pigs intended for a festival, and he rhapsodizes about the joys of acorn-fed ham. A trip to the Basque country offers an opportunity for the author to sing the praises of his old cooking-school instructor, Luis Irizar Zamora, "the master of masters" and teacher of "some of the most famous chefs in the country." Copious illustrations of people, food, and people preparing and enjoying food enliven the book, and interludes between chapters provide instruction on how to "drink like a Spaniard" ("skip the sangria," which is "largely a tourist trick") or give miniportraits of some "people of Spain," such as bodega owner Armando, who professes, "I work here 16 hours a day. I need to look for a woman. Or maybe a rich man. Anybody to give me a break." A set of tantalizing verbal snapshots rather than a culinary map of the region, the book clearly communicates the author's affection for the food, both simple and refined, of his chosen country and makes obvious how much difference a change of just a few dozen miles makes in what ingredients and dishes are favored and seen as representative of the culture.

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Starred review from November 1, 2016

In Goulding's latest work, the former Men's Health food editor and coauthor of the best-selling "Eat This, Not That" series explores the food and culture of Spain. Part narrative, part how-to guide to eating in Spain (without this book you are doing it wrong), Goulding weaves stories and observations into an organic mosaic that earns its subtitle. In nine chapters, readers are taken on a tour of all of Spain's regions, gaining insight into the country's culinary traditions and practices. The pace and rhythm of the text are just right, combining handy tips with beautiful photos that results in an elusive pairing of bracing immediacy and "all the time in the world," which makes for the best memories, at home or abroad. The second book in the series, after Rice, Noodle, Fish: Deep Travels Through Japan's Food Culture, this volume was born out of a collaboration between acclaimed digital travel magazine Roads & Kingdoms and celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain. VERDICT Deeply satisfying for the armchair traveler, this can't-miss book should be required reading prior to visiting Spain.--Courtney McDonald, Indiana Univ. Libs., Bloomington

Copyright 2016 School Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

Starred review from November 1, 2016
Goulding's presentation of the myriad Spanish gastronomic delights from across the culturally diverse country is deliciously enticing and thoughtfully introspective. The extensive tapas crawls of Barcelona and Madrid, the hedonistic pleasures of traversing Asturias with Jose Andres, and insightful discussions with the fascinating chefs and winemakers of Basque country are juxtaposed with detailed descriptions of the ancient traditions of making paella in Moor-influenced Valencia, the curing of the jamon iberico of Salamanca, and the hearty salmorejo (a garlicky tomato bread soup) of Cordoba. The importance of specific local ingredients and recipes to each area's way of life are especially illuminated in chapters on the Galician men known as percebeiros bravely hunting barnacles, the competitive bluefin tuna trade of Cadiz, and the simple migas meals of the cave-dwelling villagers of Granada. Intermezzos are provided throughout the text by interesting sidebars highlighting such nuggets of information as how to eat or drink like a Spaniard, tapas taxonomy, and the various rice dishes found throughout Spain. Introductions by way of quotes and short vignettes of a diverse cross section of Spain's unique citizenry, from fishermen to nuns, chefs to sanitation workers, further balance Goulding's culinary travel guide.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2016, American Library Association.)