The Pressure Cooker Gourmet

November 4, 2002
As Wise notes in a thorough introduction that covers general methods, the pressure cooker is a time-saver; she then offers a nice range of recipes, from a relatively simple Trout à la Vapeur with Toasted Almonds and Parsley Sauce to a more complex Salmon Terrine with Asparagus Tip and Spinach Root Garnish that is packed into a loaf pan and steamed. However, Wise (who was the first chef at Chez Panisse) often undermines that savings in time. For example, a recipe for beef broth calls for roasting the bones for 30 minutes before cooking the broth. Other recipes simply would be almost as quick when prepared using normal stovetop methods, like a Spring Spinach and Scallion Soup that takes six to seven minutes to come to pressure, then sits for eight minutes as the pressure escapes. The pressure cooker works best for braised dishes such as Chicken Marengo with Porcini-Topped Fried Bread Rounds and Rabbit with Fennel Seed, Parsnip, and Prunes in Brandy Cream, but perhaps is not the optimal choice for delicate vegetables such as Asparagus with Shallot, Lemon, and Olive Oil Dressing. While the writing in their headers tends to be awkward (Chilled Potato Soup Mexican-style with Cantaloupe and Toasted Almonds begins: "It was the gazpacho in Grenada that showed, in the right setting at the right time, cold soup is an oxymoron of a notion but a lilt in the day's repasts"), the recipes themselves are clear and simple. (Jan.)Forecast:This is a good effort, especially in the context of a small field, but not the equal of earlier pressure-cooker books like
Pressure Cooking for Everyone, by Rick Rodgers and Arlene Ward, and other titles from Lorna Sass.

January 1, 2003
\deflang1033\pard\plain\f3\fs24 Cooks today are rediscovering the pressure cooker. It's fast, simple to operate, uses less energy, doesn't require special hookups, and doesn't use up valuable counter space since it can be slipped into the cupboard when not in use. Modern pressure cookers are safe, even when abused. Victoria Wise has assembled a new collection of recipes for this old appliance in \plain\f3\fs24" The Pressure Cooker Gourmet\plain\f3\fs24 . Her recipes include some expected dishes as well as some surprises. She, along with other pressure-cooker advocates, recommends the speed of cooking risotto in the pressure cooker to avoid the traditional method's constant stirring. Wise creates a salmon and asparagus terrine in her pressure cooker, noting that wrapping it well serves to keep the hot steam from waterlogging the final product. She uses similar close-wrapping techniques to produce desserts on the order of cheesecakes. Anyone committed to serving nontraditional foods fast and easy will find new ideas aplenty here. (Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2003, American Library Association.)

December 1, 2002
Wise is the author and coauthor of numerous other cookbooks, including The Well-Filled Microwave Cookbook. Here she provides dozens of recipes for today's "100% Safe" pressure cookers, from streamlined versions of pot roast to more contemporary, elegant dishes such as Pheasant Braised with Walnuts and Shallots. There are stews of all sorts, or course, but there are also quick (no-stir) risottos, vegetable dishes ranging from Baby Artichokes and Two Sauces to an easy Ratatouille, preserves like Green Tomato Chutney, and even desserts. A good companion to Lorna Sass's now-classic Cooking Under Pressure and its follow-up, The Pressured Cook, this is recommended for most collections.

Copyright 2002 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.